A living museum

Stand at Plaza de España and look up at the Alcázar de Colón — Columbus’ palace — and you realize this place has been like this for centuries. Makes you wonder what it’s all seen, who’s been walking these same streets. That’s what I like about historical sites, and this one earns it: the first cathedral, the first university, Columbus’ first palace, all within a few blocks of each other.

Dominicans are proud of that, and they take care of it. The government actively promotes and supports the culture — the music, the cigars, the rum. And then there’s something about the streets themselves — low houses, the sea in the background, something I can’t quite put my finger on — but it gives me that Cuba feeling. That classic Caribbean Latin vibe.

Sunday night at the ruins: Bonyé

For me, the best thing in Zona Colonial — or maybe even in the whole of the Dominican Republic — is Bonyé. Something you cannot miss, especially if you’re a dancer. Every Sunday evening (weather permitting) at the ruins of the San Francisco monastery, Bonyé plays live: son, salsa, merengue, and bachata. The crowd is mostly locals, with always a few lost travelers in the mix. I’ve been there multiple times and still enjoy it to the fullest every single time. It’s the music — that relaxed Caribbean atmosphere where everyone just enjoys themselves.

“Last time, after the party, we got invited by a lady we’d just met back to her home. Eleven at night, going through her family photo albums.”

— If you join us, maybe you’ll meet her too.